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Volume 12: Marathi

Volume 12: Marathi

 

The 1990s were a pivotal decade for Mumbai—a time of significant transformation, turbulence, and reinvention. It was a city of stark contrasts, where neon-lit billboards promoting Bollywood’s biggest blockbusters coexisted with the crackdown on the underworld dons who had once ruled its streets. The chaos of the 1990s laid the foundation for the Mumbai we know today—a city of dreamers, hustlers, and survivors forever balancing glamour and grit.

The selection of street fare, carefully curated by Head Chef, Didi Sidek, focuses on the locals' everyday favourites. Start your meal with Junior’s Vada Pav ($15), which features an Indian potato croquette, a myriad of chutneys (dried, tamarind, and coriander mint), served on a butter bun, accompanied by a battered green chilli on the side for the spice-loving crowd. This was the first snack that Didi was served upon arrival, not forgetting the customary cup of hot chai.

The must-have main, Rogan Josh Masala ($26), features New Zealand lamb, russet potatoes, chickpeas, almonds, and cashews. It is served with a side of pickled onion salad and garlic flat roti, and we wouldn't be surprised if the dish returns wiped clean; it’s that good. To conclude the meal, you can enjoy Chai Time ($14), a homemade chai ice cream and Tutti-Frutti jam sandwich, served on a warm brioche bun. 

Breaking the cocktail menu into four main parts—spices, savoury, fruits and heat—with a different style of cocktail in each section, this is Junior’s class report on what we’ve learnt and love about Mumbai. 

Kicking things off with a margarita variation, the Rasam Rita features Kokum-infused mezcal, house-made rasam syrup, lime, and orange bitters—a tipple that is both familiar and different.

Or opt for the Jungli Priya, made with vodka, rasam, lime, hot sauce, and clarified tomato water. 

For savoury lovers, how about a pani puri martini? Pali Hill showcases Nuet Dry Aquavit, house-made coriander and mint pani, vermouth, olive oil, and orange bitters. Think green juice, but alcoholic better!

Or a garlic naan in drink-format, the Dadar Express is a sour made with genever, curry garlic confit, bourbon, orange, and lemon. 

Inspired by Kajol’s Mehendi outfit in DDLJ (Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge, 1995), Simran’s Mehendi is a sparkly clarified milk punch made with bourbon, pineapple, chai, condensed milk, lime, and clarified milk.

Like its namesake, Marine Drive is a coastal refresher featuring Planteray 3 Stars White Rum, Darjeeling Tea, lemon, coconut water, and carbonation. 

A crowd-pleaser, the Aam Panna, featuring gin, a house-made Aam Panna mix, mint, saline, and firewater tincture, is a sour that packs a gentle punch.

Not forgetting our spirit-forward friends, opt for the Desi Nail, a twist on a Rusty Nail, with Código 1530 Blanco Tequila, chilli, tamarind, rye, and Drambuie.

Integrated into the concept menu, Junior’s refreshed Homebrews & Highballs section continues to offer high-quality house-fermented beverages, ingredients, and brews, both with and without the hard stuff, ensuring no one is left out. Marathi’s brand-new flavours—kokum shrub, watermelon and coriander kombucha, salt-cured guava cordial, and pomegranate ginger bug—are available with a curated selection of spirits or on their own. If you choose to Keep It Boujee, or you can Make It Boozy.

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“Back then, Saturdays were spent at my grandparents’ place, and if my cousin, who was much older, was around, we would often end up watching Bollywood films because she was obsessed. I didn’t understand it, but the musical sequences always caught my attention. I still remember the first time my cousin took me to Mustafa Centre; I was so overwhelmed yet intrigued. The air was thick with an array of scents—perfume, aromatics, curry spices, coconut oil—and it was astonishing that a store this large existed, yet I had never known! Choosing 1990s Mumbai was an easy decision, and after all the research, it became the obvious choice. Mumbai has captured my heart since my first visit last year, and I look forward to sharing the love until I can visit India again.”

Hazel